Tiramisu

Tiramisu With Raspberries | photo by Zoë François

By the time I became a pastry chef in the mid 1990s tiramisu, the decadent Italian dessert that defined the 80s, was banned from all high-end restaurants. It was a matter of bad PR, not because it wasn’t well liked or frequently requested. In fact, it was its very popularity that took it down. We pastry chef types just got bored with making it all the time to satisfy the demand. The same fate took down the molten lava cake and flourless chocolate torte. But, as happens with all good things, they find their way back in fashion. I predict the humble tiramisu will find its way onto a menu near you. If I happen to be wrong about this, we can have our own revolution and make it at home.  This version was inspired by a recipe from  Joanne Chang’s book, Flour. Yes, she apologizes for making it. I stand proud and layer espresso sponge cake, soaked with coffee and booze with rich mascarpone mousse, then top it all with chocolate ganache and raspberries. The trick is to soak the layers just enough to impart flavor and make them delicate, but not so much that they become soggy mush. The bite of the coffee and liqueur is perfectly mellowed by the custard, but none of it is overly sweet. I built them as individuals, using PVC pipe that I had cut to the right size (super cheap), but you can buy circular pastry molds (kind of expensive) or even washed out cans (sweetened condensed milk is just the right size). You can do this exact same recipe in a small trifle bowl or in short water glasses.

Andrew Zimmern was my very first boss out of culinary school –  in the 1990s high-end restaurant I mentioned earlier. It was a wild and creative time in my life. He wasn’t eating freaky things, but he was pushing the culinary palate in Minneapolis, and I was lucky enough to be part of that ride. Last week he invited me to visit with him on his podcast Go Fork Yourself. We talked about baking bread in a crock pot, cooking in a dishwasher, vegan egg replacer that is changing the world, to be, or not to be gluten-free and the merits of a sexy index (my new book has one), plus the first time I told him to go fork himself! You can here the podcast here.

Tiramisu 

(makes 8 individual)

Sponge cake:

4 eggs, separated

2/3 cup sugar

1/4 cup espresso, hot

1 cup all-purpose flour

Pinch salt

Mascarpone cream filling:

4 egg yolks

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup Amaretto

Pinch salt

3/4 cup mascarpone cheese

1/2 cup heavy cream

For assembling tiramisu:

1 cup coffee, plus 2 tablespoons Amaretto

1/4 cup cocoa powder, for dusting layers

Ganache:

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate

2/3 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon Amaretto

Fresh Raspberries for garnish

To make the sponge cake:

Preheat oven to 350°F

Line a baking sheet with parchment and grease with butter

NOTE: I doubled the above recipe, so all of the pictures will show a larger amount than you will be making.

Mixing Eggs, Sugar and Espresso with Whisk Attachment | photo by Zoë François

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat 4 yolks, 1/3 cup sugar and the hot espresso on high speed for about 5 minutes.

Mixing Eggs, Sugar and Espresso with Whisk Attachment | photo by Zoë François

The egg mixture will be light in color and very thick.

Egg Mixture Dripping Off Whisk Attachment | photo by Zoë François

The egg foam will hesitate on the surface when the whisk is lifted out of the bowl and the foam falls back into the bowl.

Egg Foam in a Mixing Bowl | photo by Zoë François

In another metal bowl (if you use the same bowl and whisk, they need to be perfectly clean and dried or the whites won’t whip properly). Beat the egg whites on medium speed until they start to foam, about 1 minute. Slowly add the remaining 1/3 cup of sugar and continue mixing until the whites are shiny and hold a stiff peak.

Egg Foam Mixture | photo by Zoë François

Mix about 1/3 of the whites into the yolks, this will lighten the yolk mixture. Gently fold the remaining egg white mixture into the yolks using a rubber spatula.

Sifting Salt and Flour for into Egg Mixture | photo by Zoë François

Sift the flour and salt over the combined egg foam.

Zoe sifting flour into a bowl of egg mixture | photo by Zoë François

Gently fold the flour into the eggs, using the rubber spatula.

Tiramisu Batter Spread on Pan | photo by Zoë François

Spread the cake batter over the prepared baking sheet.

Tiramisu Baking in the Oven | photo by Zoë François

Bake for about 12 to 15 minutes, or until the cake springs back when gently pressed. Allow the cake to cool completely. It can be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for 24 hours.

To make the mascarpone filling:

Whipping Egg for Tiramisu Mascarpone Filling | photo by Zoë François

In a double boiler whisk together 4 egg yolks, sugar, Amaretto and salt.

Egg Mixture for Tiramisu Mascarpone Filling Thickening | photo by Zoë François

Continue whisking until the mixture thickens.

Placing Egg Mixture for Tiramisu Mascarpone Filling In an Ice Bath | photo by Zoë François

Place the bowl in an ice bath to cool the mixture quickly. Stir occasionally until it is completely cool.

Whisking Mascarpone and Heavy Cream for Tiramisu Filling | photo by Zoë François

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment beat together the mascarpone and heavy cream until they hold stiff peaks. Be sure not to over do it or it will get grainy.

Folding Egg and Mascarpone Together for Tiramisu Filling | photo by Zoë François

Once the yolk mixture is cool, fold the whipped mascarpone into it.

To assemble the individual tiramisu:

Place the molds on a baking sheet lined with parchment and line your molds with acetate strips. The acetate is a stiff, but pliable, plastic that will line the molds, which makes removing the tiramisu a snap.

Mold for Tiramisu | photo by Zoë François

Using a round cutter that matches the diameter of your PVC molds, cut out a circle of the cooled cake. Place the cake circle on the bottom of the mold.

Brushing Tiramisu With Amaretto | photo by Zoë François

Brush each cake layer with the coffee and Amaretto mixture. Just enough to flavor, but not so much that it is saturated.

Dusting Tiramisu with Cocoa Powder | photo by Zoë François

  

dust the top with cocoa powder.

Mascarpone Filling for Tiramisu in Pastry Bag | photo by Zoë François

Place the mascarpone mixture in a pastry bag fitted with a round tip.

Tiramisu Piped with Mascarpone Filling | photo by Zoë François

Pipe a thin layer of the custard over the cream.

Tiramisu Topped With Cocoa Powder | photo by Zoë François

Repeat with another layer of cake, soaking liquid, cocoa powder, mascarpone. Finish with one more layer of cake, soaking liquid and cocoa.

Drizzling Tiramisu With Ganache | photo by Zoë François

To make the ganache: Heat the cream in a saucepan to a simmer. Remove from heat and add the chopped chocolate, swirl the pot to make sure the chocolate is covered. Let sit for 3 minutes, then gently stir with a spoon. Allow the ganache to cool and thicken slightly. While it is still pourable, spoon the ganache over the top of each tiramisu to make a thin layer.

Tiramisu Ready to Serve | photo by Zoë François

Cover each tiramisu with raspberries and refrigerate until ready to eat.

Tray of Tiramisu Topped With Raspberries | photo by Zoë François

They can be made a day ahead.

Tiramisu Ready to Eat | photo by Zoë François

Remove the acetate and serve.

Plum Cake – a fall affair

plum cake

As the weather gets chillier, at least here in the upper Midwest, we turn our attention over to apples and pears. The summer fruits and berries are no longer available, with the exception of the Italian plum. It has a short little season, which gives one hope and the ability to make it through a winter without stone fruits. ACT NOW, they don’t last long. These little gems are good to eat, but even better to bake with. They aren’t quite as juicy or sweet as their American cousins (of course, once the Italian plums are dried into prunes, and the sugars concentrated, they are the sweetest of all), but they keep their shape well and their skin adds a gorgeous purple color to tarts and cakes.

The brown sugar cake batter and sweet crumb topping are a perfect compliment to the not-too-sweet fruit. It is great for breakfast with a cup of tea and/or with ice cream after dinner. This is plum cake also seems to get better the second day, if there is any left.

Italian Plums | ZoëBakes | Photo by Zoë François

The Italian plums have a lovely purple skin with a slightly chalky look. This is just how they look and will keep this appearance even after washing them.

Italian Plum Cake:

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

1 1/4 cups brown sugar

3 eggs

2 yolks

1 1/2 teaspoons lemon zest

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

18 Italian plums, cut in half and pitted.

Topping:

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

To make the cake:

Preheat oven to 350°F

Grease an 8-inch springform pan with butter

Plum Cake Batter | ZoëBakes | Photo by Zoë François

In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream together the butter and brown sugar, until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the bowl after each. Mix in the zest and vanilla. In a separate bowl whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the butter/sugar mixture and mix on low speed until just combined.

Spread half of the batter into the prepared pan.

Cut plums in cake batter | ZoëBakes | Photo by Zoë François

Place half of the cut plums on the batter, cut side up. Spread the remaining batter over the plums.

Cut plums in cake batter | ZoëBakes | Photo by Zoë François

Spread the batter into an even layer and top with remaining plums.

Crumb Topping | ZoëBakes | Photo by Zoë François

In a bowl mix together the flour, sugar, salt, cinnamon and melted butter. You may have to mix it with your hands to get all the butter incorporated.

Plum cake with crumb topping | ZoëBakes | Photo by Zoë François

Spread the crumb topping over the plums evenly.

Crumb topping on plum cake | ZoëBakes | Photo by Zoë François

Place the cake on two stacked cookie sheets, to prevent the bottom from getting too brown during the long baking time. Bake for about 1 1/4 hours or until a tester come out clean. Cool on a rack.

Slice of plum cake | ZoëBakes | Photo by Zoë François

Serve it slightly warm or at room temperature.

Slice of plum cake | ZoëBakes | Photo by Zoë François

Vietnamese Ice Coffee Panna Cotta

Vietnamese ice coffee panna cotta | ZoëBakes | Photo by Zoë François

I fell in love with a little Vietnamese restaurant when I was pregnant with my first son. I craved salty, spicy, big, fat flavorful foods and Quang delivered on all of it. I would have eaten every meal for the nine months there, but I knew my husband just couldn’t take it, so I limited myself to 3 days a week. Once my son was born I’d bring him in to the restaurant and the servers would carry him around, so I could have 2 minutes to slurp up my pho (soup) and suck down a Ca Phe Sua Da (Vietnamese ice coffee with sweetened condensed milk). The coffee was a bit of a ritual in those days. They poured hot water over coffee grounds in a little metal filter, which fit perfectly over a glass with sweetened condensed milk at the bottom. It was like sweet torture waiting for the slow drip to finish and yet I loved the anticipation. Once the hot coffee was done dripping over the milk I’d stir it all together and pour it over ice. The first sip, because I was too impatient to wait another second, was the slightest bit warm and cloyingly sweet. As the ice melted and the coffee chilled the flavor was perfection. Sadly, Quang now brings the Ca Phe Sua Da to the table already made and in sealed plastic cups, which is hardly as romantic, but it is still delicious and I manage to drink at least one, or two, or three a week. They don’t come in decaf, so unless you are planning to be up late, you may want to save this for lunchtime.

The strong bite of the coffee, mixed with the sweet creaminess of the condensed milk is like a perfectly balanced dessert, so I hardly worked to get this one right. I like my panna cotta with as little gelatin as possible, just enough to keep it together. This version requires even less, because I leave it right in the glass. I suppose you could invert it, but the stripes are so lovely, and it would be hard to get it to look so crisp and clean as it wiggled on the plate.

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Chocolate Covered Coffee Toffee and my Birthday Cake!

Chocolate covered coffee toffee | ZoëBakes | Photo by Zoë François

Today is my birthday. I am a woman of a certain age and I think it is worthy of celebrating, so I made one of my favorite candies, chocolate-covered toffee, with a hit of coffee. I never buy Health Heath Bars, but every year I manage to convince my boys to give me them from their Halloween bags. This year was no different. Then on my travels for the book tour I ended up with the ultimate version, which has completely ruined me to the Hershey’s product. Not so sweet, a powerful kick of coffee and really lovely bittersweet chocolate. The maker is Poco Dolce and Samantha at Omnivore Books in San Fran turned me onto them after our book signing there. I love her and hate her for that! I bought several varieties and all of them were delicious, but the little bag of coffee toffee was like a bag of chips, you can’t eat just one. I brought them home and considered not sharing with my husband, but after leaving him at home for 9 days with the boys I figured it was the least I could do to share my candies. Big mistake. He ate them all. Well not really, but they were gone. I had only one choice, make my own. It is surprisingly easy and perfect for wrapping up as holiday gifts or just hiding in your desk drawer, or both.

Every year my husband and my boys set off on the loving task of baking my birthday cake. This year my husband outdid himself and made a devil’s food cake with cream cheese icing and a fresh raspberry filling. You can see his lovely work at the end of the post. Read More

Butterscotch Pudding with Coffee-Caramel Bananas

Cups of Butterscotch Pudding with Bananas and homemade creme fraiche

Butterscotch is one of those flavors that can make you travel through time. I remember eating it, still warm off the stove, when I was just a kid. It was straight from the box of Jell-O instant pudding and it was fabulous to my 7-year-old taste buds. Today I’d probably have a very different reaction to that product and my poor kids have never even tried it. I’d be horrified by its overly sweet and gelatinous taste and they would probably love it! Instead, I made them butterscotch pudding from scratch, so they would have the same romantic memory, but this one they can take into adulthood.

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